Pier Giorgio Frassati

How to Wear a Suit and Tie If You Don't Know How to Wear a Suit and Tie

Who This Post Is For and What I'm Not Doing or Saying in It

This isn't a post for dandies or guys who are into fashion. Nothing against them. 

This is for guys who, for whatever reason, don't wear a suit and tie but have the sneaking suspicion that sometimes... they should.  Like, at mass.

I'm not here to judge. Or to convince you to set a good example for your kids or grandkids or maybe make a good impression on your future wife by reverencing our Lord as He's sacrificed upon the altar for the redemption of man.

I won't point out that principalities are at work to destroy everything good and sacred and traditional. Nor how the whole casual trend started in Silicon Valley... and came into full stride during the COVID lockdowns. Nor how, for the first time, none of the G7 world leaders wore a tie for their class picture in the Bavarian Alps last summer.

No, whether you decide to end hundreds of years of attempting to dress in a manner dignifying yourself, those around you, and, while at Mass anyway, God in His physical form... that's your call.

Street Cred

As a former management consultant, diplomat, and executive who's spent a career in DC, I've had to wear a suit and tie most of my adult life. People in Washington love to look important.

I'm here to tell you that business attire is not hard or expensive--and, darn it, if you won't look handsome... if you just stick to some basics.

How to Wear a Suit and Tie If You Don't Know How to Wear a Suit and Tie

The following is the absolute, most basic info. If you're starting from square one, trust me, just go basic.

Suit. Dark blue or dark grey. Not black. Wool. Not cotton or linen or polyester. Brooks Brothers and Jos A Bank have a variety of sizes and cuts depending on how out of shape you are. Both regularly have sales for up to 70% off--just wait for them. No pinstripes. No patterns. You can wear a solid dark blue or grey suit endlessly before anyone notices it's your only suit.

Look up how a suit should fit and take it easy on the slim-fit stuff unless you're a 140-pound J Crew model.

Shirt. Solid white or solid light blue. Cotton. Again, no patterns or stripes. Jos A Bank Traveler Collection wears like iron. Press after washing. Wear collar stays. Wear a white undershirt so your chest hair doesn't pop out. Get one that fits so you don't take out someone's eye with a flying button. Don't worry about cufflinks unless you want to.

Dress shoes. Black with the blue suit.  Dark brown with the grey suit. That rule isn't hard and fast but it's time-honored tradition.  Leather.  Go with a rounded toe, not a square toe. Keep them reasonably shined.  No patent leather and, especially if they're your only good pair, stay away from light-colored shoes.

A simple cap-toe with a slit opening for the laces is timeless and versatile. Start basic.  Expensive.  Cheaper.  Use shoe trees and a shoe horn and good shoes will last a lifetime. Don't, and they won't.

Belt. Dress belt to match your shoes.

Socks. Wear them. Over the calf. Same color as your suit, not as your shoes. Don't get whacky.

Ties. Any one you want. I know where you can get some cool Catholic ones.

Watch. Any one you want.

Accessories. You don't need any. That's it.  No pocket square required or flowers that squirt water. You're done.

You can wear either color suit, swapping shirts and ties, if you want to, from now on. You can go anywhere and meet anyone. You can run for Senate. You can work at Macy's. You will be appropriately dressed at Mass and other special occasions for the rest of your life.

You can do all this for about $300 and come out looking plenty sharp.

Need to prioritize your spending? Shoes. Tie. Shirt. Suit. Then maybe wristwatch, if you're into that sort of thing.

Good luck and God bless.

Further reading: "Dressing Like a Man for Mass" article by Matthew James Christoff from The Catholic Gentleman.

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